Rhubarbaria

This is a book devoted to rhubarb recipes from around the world, both ancient and modern. From its home in the northern climes of Asia – Mongolia, Siberia and the foothills of the Himalayas – rhubarb came first to Europe in classical times as a dried root with medicinal qualities. Thus was it initially proposed to the British public. ‘It purifieth the bloud and makes yong wenches look faire and cherry-like,’ says Gerard in his Herbal in 1597. It wasn’t until the 18th century that the fruit or vegetable was introduced to English tables and by now it has successfully naturalized as a culinary favourite. And why not? It is one of the few plants that every gardener can manage to harvest — slug-proof, drought-proof and flood-proof — allowing that delectable tartness and fresh, roseate pink to ornament the tables of everyone.

Drawing on the cuisines of England, Scotland, Scandinavia and other parts of northern Europe, America and New Zealand, the book provides a rhubarbaric dish for every occasion. There is particular emphasis on recipes from Shetland, because the author spends half the year on the islands and rhubarb has a special place in Shetland’s cookery. Mary Prior has undertaken an extensive search through earlier literature and presents here a commentated repertoire of every sort of rhubarb recipe. Whether with meat or fish, vegetables, as a pudding in its own right, as a jam or in chutney: all sorts of bright ideas are explained.